Technique - Blush Strokes (part II)

Perhaps you've never worn blush before...or perhaps you've worn it the same way for your whole life, never knowing that there were different ways to apply it. In this post I will use a model whom I've named Cordelia (*grins*):


In the picture above, Cordelia is wearing very minimal makeup. I will show you (with a little Photoshop editing - hehe!) how applying blush in different manners can actually enhance your features in varying ways! You can follow along - trying out the different suggestions in a mirror (washing your face in-between of course) until you find one or two ways that you really like it.

First I will note that I prefer loose powdered mineral blush. It costs a little more, but it lasts quite a while, and I think it looks more natural.
You will also want a blush brush. NOT the little ones that come in the blush compacts. No. You want to find a foofy one! Not a HUGE one, but one that's almost the size of your cheek's "apple" when you smile.
Make sure the blush color compliments your skin tone. Cool skin tones generally have a blue undertone when examined in natural light, whereas warm skin tones are generally more of a yellow undertone. Here is an easy guide I got from lamasbeauty.com for finding your right blush color:

Your Best Way to Blush Guide
Cool-Toned Skin	Warm-Toned Skin
If you look best in these fashion colors: blue, acqua, green, lavender, plum and other cool water tones…	If you look best in these fashion colors: peach, pink, orange, red, olive-green and and other warm earth-tones…
Get a rush from your blush in cool tones of Plum, Wine, Crimson, Blue-Red, Pastel Pink, TerraCotta, Peach, Rose.	Get a rush from your blush in warm tones of Hot Pink, Coral, Warm Red, Bronze, Brown.
Blush Intensity According to Skin Tone: Fair: Light to Medium Intensity Medium: Medium Intensity Deep: Medium to Deep Intensity

When you first start out applying the blush, you can layer it - adding color until you get to the shade you want (note: my cheeks often look more red directly after I apply my blush than a few minutes after, probably because the brush stimulates the blood flow a bit). Or you can add more than you think you need at first, and then gently wipe a little off with a tissue (I often do this...). Either way, you will want to blend it a little with your fingertips for a more natural look.
(Also, if you have a longer face, applying and blending a little blush right below your hairline, and adding a light daub to your chin can help even it out.)

Here are some of the ways you can apply your blush:

Widen
For this look, you will apply the blush in a more horizontal manner, starting at the apples of your cheeks and working it outward. Useful if you have a narrow face.



Lengthen
Brush on the blush vertically to slim down your face.



Lift
For this effect, you will apply the brush directly on the cheekbone at a slant. This will give the impression that you have lovely cheekbones, even if you don't.



Sharpen
To make your face appear more angular, apply your blush underneath your cheekbone, at a slight angle. This is lovely on round faces.



Soften
This is a fresh, gentle look. To do it yourself, simply apply the blush to the apple of your cheek, and blend a bit. Great for angular faces (square especially).

Dramatic
Start just above the eyebrows and lightly dust the blush around them to the outer edge of your face, and then down over your cheekbone - fading the blush out as you near the "apple". Nice for special occasions.